GuideWhat road and gravel cyclists need to know about rain jackets

Matthias Borchers

 · 23.09.2023

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Photo: Markus Greber
Riding a road bike in the rain

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Cycling in the rain in autumn and winter can be fun if you have the right clothes - for example, a functional rain jacket. Our expert knowledge offers valuable tips on functionality, cut, equipment details and care.

The classic rain jacket combines a cut adapted to the racing bike position, allows raindrops to bead off permanently and transports perspiration away from the skin to the outside in the form of water vapour.

If you are looking for a robust and durable Rain jacket A 3-layer jacket is the best choice if you are looking for a waterproof jacket. Such a jacket consists of a 3-layer laminate in which the waterproof and vapour-permeable membrane is located between the water-repellent outer shell and the lining as a protective layer. The membrane can be microporous (e.g. Gore-Tex) or non-porous (e.g. SympaTex). In microporous membranes, tiny holes are responsible for permeability. In the case of non-porous membranes, a special molecular structure ensures water vapour transport.

The classic road bike rain jacket

The cut of the rain jacket must anticipate the bent posture on the road bike and may sometimes be one size larger so that a warm jersey still fits underneath
Photo: Matthias Borchers
Classic 3-layer rain jacket from Gore

Location, location, location

Other options are rain jackets with 2 or 2.5 layers. In 2-layer jackets, the layer consists of an outer fabric and a membrane that are glued together. The lining fabric - if present - is not firmly attached to the layer, but only hooked into the jacket. This can cause friction on the membrane and damage it over time. A 2.5-layer jacket is a light and stable alternative that also protects the membrane on the inside. However, a full layer is not applied here, only a thin protective layer. Manufacturers use honeycomb patterns or carbon layers, for example. The 2.5-layer jackets are therefore more resistant than 2-layer jackets, but also lighter and more breathable than the robust 3-layer jackets.

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Many small details make the perfect rain jacket

A narrow strip of material behind the front zip protects against water and draughts
Photo: Matthias Borchers
Equipment details of a road bike rain jacket
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To ensure that the expensive rain jacket lasts a long time and remains water-repellent and vapour-permeable, a conscientious care programme is recommended. This includes washing the material properly and regularly refreshing the finish with washing and waterproofing agents recommended by the manufacturer. Tips and information can be found on the manufacturer's website in the service area or here on our website.

Be careful when washing your rain jacket!

The DWR impregnation of rainwear is gradually worn away by washing in the machine. It is particularly damaging if you wash the rain jacket in the normal wash, use washing powder and then spin it at 1400 revolutions. This can cause the membrane to crease and tear, or washing powder residue can damage the sensitive outer skin. But even without washing, the rain jacket loses its function because dust and sweat clog the pores.

Waterproofing is only necessary when the water droplets no longer bead upPhoto: Philipp SchiederWaterproofing is only necessary when the water droplets no longer bead up

How to do it right: If used frequently, rainwear can be washed five to six times a year in a washing machine that is not too full. Close all zips, loosen drawstrings, then wash with 30 ml liquid detergent at 30 or 40 degrees, depending on the type of membrane. Do not spin or use fabric softener! Fabric softener gets stuck in the pores and the breathability is gone forever. Then tumble dry (30 minutes, max. 60 degrees) or simply hang up and then reactivate the waterproofing with an iron (low temperature). Also important: Before washing, be sure to remove any detergent residue from the compartment. Special sports detergents, such as Nikwax Tech Wash (300 ml, 9.95 euros), are environmentally friendly and maintain the DWR impregnation.

Environmentally friendly impregnation

DWR stands for "Durable Water Repellency". DWR is the outer protective barrier against moisture and prevents the outer fabric from soaking up water. Unfortunately, this function does not usually last very long. Then raindrops no longer roll off, but form a closed film on the outer textile layer. The result: the clothing not only feels clammy, it also loses its vapour permeability.

More and more manufacturers are now using alternatives to PFCs that are made from silicones or polymers and are significantly more environmentally friendly. Even if these products are often not as effective as those containing PFCs, some manufacturers such as Nikwax or Fibertec deliberately avoid using PFCs in their waterproofing agents. There are also PFC-free products for the membranes themselves, for example from Sympatex. Vaude uses polyurethane or polyester instead of PFC for its own Ceplex membrane. Gore Wear - probably the best-known manufacturer of waterproof membranes - has set itself the goal of removing all PFCs from its products and production processes by 2023.

Waterproofing sprays: the lotus effect on your cycling jacket

Fibertec Textile Guard EcoPhoto: Fibertec (Hersteller)Fibertec Textile Guard Eco

Does your cycling jacket greedily soak up drops of water instead of letting them roll off like a lotus leaf? Then waterproofing sprays can help. The Fibertec Textile Guard Eco (500 ml, €16.95), for example, is 100% PFC-free and completely biodegradable. Ideally, it should be sprayed onto the freshly washed and still damp fabric from the outside and rubbed into the fabric with a sponge. The garment should be spread out flat on a table. About 120 ml is sufficient for a normal rain jacket. After the spray has been rubbed in, the waterproofing is activated in the dryer. Alternatively, this can also be done with an iron. If the waterproofing wears off over time or after a wash, the DWR (Durable Water Repellency) should be reactivated in the dryer. Only when water no longer beads up even after heat treatment should you re-impregnate.

Materials science: PFAS and what you should know about them

PFAS are considered harmful to the environment and health, and yet the chemicals are still used in outdoor clothing. The EU wants to ban this group of substances. What is behind this?

That is why PFAS are dangerous:

Manufacturers are still using PFAS (per- and poly-fluorinated alkyl substances) for waterproof outdoor clothing. The fluorochemicals are water, dirt and grease repellent, but are suspected of having a negative effect on the hormone and immune system and causing cancer. PFAS are artificial substances that do not occur in nature. Because the compounds accumulate in water and soil and do not degrade in nature, they are also known as "eternal chemicals".

Hardly any regulations to date

To date, the EU authorisation process (REACH) has only regulated individual substances that have been proven to have negative effects. Five European countries, including Germany and the Netherlands, want to ban the production, use and import of this group of substances throughout the EU. This includes more than 10,000 substances. According to the Federal Environment Agency, however, possible restrictions are not expected until 2025 at the earliest.

Does my rain jacket contain PFAS?

According to the Federal Environment Agency, there are few ways for consumers to recognise whether products contain PFAS and to avoid them. In the case of clothing such as outdoor jackets, such products are usually labelled with seals such as GOTS or Blue Angel for textiles. Some manufacturers also indicate PTFE- and/or PFC-free materials on the labels. There are now also products labelled as PFC-free in the impregnation sector. Instead of PFAS-based sprays, natural greases or waxes can also be used.

Matthias Borchers is an expert for clothing and accessories in the test department of TOUR. As an amateur cyclist, he has completed the TOUR-Transalp and the TOUR-Trans Austria. His reportage trips from San Francisco to Sakai and 17 trips to the Tour de France with around 30,000 motorhome kilometres are also formative.

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